Hot Topic: 2003 Vintage Red Bordeaux Poised to be Legendary

By Bryan Robbins, Cool Springs Wines & Spirits

Published in VIP Franklin Magazine, April 2006

In the world of wine, there are few rivals to a bottle of fine Bordeaux, the artful blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. For centuries, Bordeaux has consistently produced some of the finest wines in the world, but each vintage is unique. Every bottle tells a story about vineyard conditions — from bud-break to harvest; from mid-summer drought to late season deluge. The soon-to-be-released 2003 red Bordeaux is poised to become legendary, with critics comparing 2003 to the fabulous vintages of 1982, 1990, 1947 and 1959.

Williamson County wine consumers are eagerly anticipating the arrival of the outstanding 2003 vintage. I spent several days in Bordeaux last April which afforded me an inside peak at this remarkable appellation. I learned then that the extreme heat that caused numerous deaths in France during the summer of 2003 also stressed the vines, producing grapes with exceptionally intense flavor in a more New World style. September's more stable climate provided important balance. These are powerful, opulent, fresh and bright wines with sweet tannins — still displaying richness and classic structure.

Bordeaux soils are a critical element in determining what varietals to plant. On the "Left Bank" of the Gironde River, soils are often gravelly or sandy and quite poor, but provide good drainage and retain heat. This strains the vines, concentrating flavors in the grapes. Appellations such as Pauillac, Margaux, St. Julien, St. Estephe, Graves and Pessac Leognan suit the slow-ripening Cabernet Sauvignon. The Left Bank produces the most famous wines, including the Premiers Crus, or "First Growths".

The "Right Bank" soils consist primarily of limestone, clay and sand and are more suited to Merlot, and Cabernet Franc, which ripen earlier. The two most widely regarded appellations in this region are St. Emilion and Pomerol. Although they do not have first growth status, several of these wines command similar prices on the open market.

The white wines of the 2003 vintage were good, but not great. The wines of Barsac and Sauternes are rich, full-bodied wines with high alcohol and residual sugar levels, but have fragile acidity and lack the essential balance for long-term aging.

Bordeaux red wines are among some of the most exclusive wines in the world, and are served in restaurants with high quality wine lists. They pair well with everything from steaks or wild game, to poultry with rich, heavy sauces or hard cheeses. Wines from this fabulous vintage will be served at the finest dinner tables for several decades.